($125) Saturated, bright ruby-red. Knockout nose of black raspberry, meat, minerals, spices, chicory and espresso. Like liquid silk in the mouth; an incredibly concentrated, nearly confectionery wine, with compelling flavors of blackberry, violet and game. As creamy as a molten Valrhona chocolate cake. The oak component serves to frame and intensify the flavors, enabling this wonderfully thick wine to retain a sappy character. Finishes with intriguing garrigue notes and a repeating espresso element.

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As frighteningly spectacular as the 2000 Chateauneuf du Pape Reserve Le Clos du Caillou was (I've drunk a half dozen or more bottles since my initial report), the 2001 Chateauneuf du Pape Reserve Le Clos du Caillou is one of the most monumental wines of this appellation I have ever tasted. A legendary effort that pays homage to the last vintage the late Jean-Denis Vacheron produced, it boasts an inky/purple color in addition to a terrific perfume of creme de cassis, kirsch, acacia flowers, melted licorice, and graphite. It possesses awesome purity as well as layers of concentration, yet a seamless integration of acidity, tannin, and alcohol. Spectacularly long (the finish lasts over 60 seconds), it cuts a broad swath across the palate, yet is remarkably light on its feet. This amazing effort, a blend of 45% Grenache, 40% Mourvedre, and 15% Syrah, is one of the strongest candidates for wine of the vintage in 2001.

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This is rolling along, slowly unwinding its dark, mulled fig, currant paste and blackberry pâte de fruit notes. The still-dense, fleshy and youthful fruit is melding with more-mature hints of roasted apple wood, briar, espresso and smoldering ash notes that stretch out through the long, richly detailed finish. Impressive now, and should cruise for another decade.

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