($175) Smoky, brooding aromas of roasted black raspberry, mocha and dark chocolate. Dense and huge but pure, with superb concentration and a rather restrained sweetness. Has the density and structure for extended aging, not to mention powerful, toothcoating tannins. A superb showing.

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The most backward, earthy, muscular/masculine wine of the group is the 2001 Vecina. Still quite tightly knit, with loads of rugged tannins as well as distinctive notes of graphite and earth reminiscent of a St.-Estephe such as Chateau Montrose, the wine displays sweet, earthy blueberry and blackberry fruit, but then the tannins kick in. This full-bodied, massive wine needs a good 5-7 years of cellaring at the minimum, and whether it ever approaches the seamless/flawless perfection of a St. Eden or Melbury remains to be seen.

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Dense, tight and tannic yet enormously complex, with blackberry, black licorice, graphite, charcoal, mocha, dried herb and cedary notes that are intense and persistent, working through ripe, chewy tannins. 2001 California Cabernet blind retrospective (June 2011). Drink now through 2025. 700 cases made.

Professional content appears courtesy of Vinfolio

Professional content appears courtesy of Vinfolio