($150-$190) Good bright ruby-red. Fresh, slightly medicinal aromas of black cherry, licorice and bitter chocolate. At once sweet and gripping, with spicy flavors of currant, plum and minerals. Finishes with substantial fine tannins and very good length.

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The newest baby of Gerard and Chantal Perse, this 5-acre vineyard (with vines averaging 45 years of age) was acquired in 2001. A blend of 90% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc, and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon (similar to Pavie-Decesse), it was cropped at a tiny 15 hectoliters per hectare, enjoyed a seven week maceration period, was aged in 100% new oak, the first six months on its lees, and bottled unfined and unfiltered after 24 months of aging. There are only 4,500 bottles of this elixir. While not as complex or delineated as Pavie or Pavie-Decesse, it is opulent, even voluptuous, with a heady perfume of ink, black fruits, truffles, and lead pencil shavings. Full-bodied, expansive, and velvety-textured, this huge, sweet, chewy St.-Emilion boasts great concentration and texture. Drink it during its first 15-18 years of life, although my instincts suggest it will live a lot longer.

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First year and a hell of wine. Like Vintage Port. Perhaps slightly overdone, but impressive. Full-bodied, with loads of fruit and tannins. Mouthpuckering but outstanding. A modern interpretation of an ancient style of wine. Blockbuster. 90 percent Merlot, 5 percent Cabernet Franc and 5 percent Cabernet Sauvignon. Don't ask the price, which will be out of this world.

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