($100; winemaker Pierre Seillan's Pomerol blend, based on 87% merlot) Medium ruby. Red- and blackcurrant, bitter chocolate and tobacco aromas lifted by floral and mineral nuances. Dense, juicy and bright, with lovely definition and intensity of flavor. Not at all a thick style of merlot but has terrific verve and structure. Finishes with terrific tannin/acid spine and excellent persistence.

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Composed of 86% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc and 4% Cabernet Sauvignon, all from Sonoma, this totally mature, soft, round, fruity red offers up hints of underbrush, fruitcake, black currants, sweet kirsch and licorice. By no means the most complete or concentrated La Muse, it is the fastest to hit full maturity. Drink it over the next 5-7 years.

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Plenty of richness, depth and stuffing, along with excellent balance and focus. The core of currant, blackberry, anise, spice and cedar notes are all gracefully in place and remain persistent on the finish, giving it a very Bordeaux-like personality. 500 cases made.

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Deep ruby with a narrow garnet rim. Intense aromas of black fruit and the whole Asian spice box (star anise, five spice powder, etc.). Medium-full body, with firm well-integrated tannins that suggest early maturity. A very pleasant surprise given the vintage. These are consciously old world-styled wines that challenge some of the California stereotypes and definitely demand patience.