($68; all new barriques Medium red. Strawberry, flowers, woodsmoke and nutty oak on the nose. Juicy but tight; distinctly tougher and more backward than the Ciabot Manzoni, and showing less texture today. Here the wine's wood tannins are more apparent on the tight finish.

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The 2000 Barolo Bricco Luciani is a gorgeous, harmonious wine that has matured along Burgundian lines, as Grasso's wines so often do. Crushed flowers, spices, licorice, sweet herbs and candied cherries flow from this impeccable, beautifully balanced Barolo.

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Wow. Fabulously rich and decadent aromas. Full-bodied, with ultrafine tannins and a finish that goes forever. Gorgeous.

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