Medium ruby. Exotic roasted aromas of surmaturite: black raspberry liqueur, dark chocolate, leather and earth. Shows a thickness and sweetness verging on porty, but the appeal of this bottle was reduced by some exotic, rather odd oak notes. Can this be right? (My sample of the 2001 was too low in SO2 and showing distinct oxidation notes; I'll have to report on the finished bottle next year.) (Eric Solomon/European Cellars, Charlotte, NC)

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For readers fortunate enough to latch onto the super-expensive Chateauneuf du Pape Le Secret des Sabon, the 2000 may not be as profound as the 1998, but it is a terrific effort. A deep plum/purple color is accompanied by subtle notes of pepper, spice, truffles, earth, smoked meats, prunes, and a wealth of black currant and cherry fruit. Although full-bodied, rich, and concentrated, with majestic layers of flavor that unfold on the palate, the 2000 remains closed and tannic, so patience is suggested.

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