2000 Mondotte Bordeaux Blend - France - Bordeaux - St Emilion - Red

($399-$525) Deep, bright ruby. Knockout nose combines kirsch, cassis, violet, espresso, graphite, minerals and toast. Extremely powerful and urgent on the attack, then remarkably lush, dense and full in the middle, with fresh acidity to frame and brighten the dark berry, game and truffle flavors. The major, thoroughly ripe tannins arrive very late, coating the front teeth. For fans of this expensive cult wine, this is a freakishly strong vintage.

In two tastings this garagiste wine performed as if it were one of the wines of the vintage. Proprietor Stefan von Neipperg continues to lavish abundant attention on La Mondotte (as he does with all his estates), and the 2000 (80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc) boasts an inky/blue/purple color in addition to gorgeous aromas of graphite, caramel, toast, blackberries, and creme de cassis. A floral component also emerges as the wine sits in the glass. Extremely dense, full-bodied, and built for another twenty years of cellaring, I thought it would be close to full maturity, but it appears to need another 4-5 years of bottle age.

Subdued, but impressive concentration of berry, cherry and mineral character. Full-bodied, very silky, with a lovely texture and a long, inviting finish. Smoky, coffee character. A silky and sexy wine that develops into a big and powerful red. La Mondotte is a great wine. 830 cases made.