($200) Bright gold. Deep, subtly smoky nectarine and musky yellow plum aromas are energized by a suave mineral quality. Broad and fleshy, with deep, chewy pear, pit fruit and buttered toast flavors. A serious style, with velvety texture and excellent finishing punch. This has the concentration to repay cellaring but is open-knit enough to enjoy on the young side. (Maisons Marques & Domaines USA, Oakland, CA)

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This is only the sketchiest of notes as I tasted this wine quite separately from the wines below, in a much less propitious glass. It seemed very very youthful and not especially structured. Obviously  far too young to drink though I fear that won’t stop most Cristal drinkers popping the cork.

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Seductively mellow and replete with honey toffee as always, and wrapped around with silkiness. The fantastic thing is that the fruitiness is very young and bursting with energy, with tones of spring flowers, gooseberries and red currants along with sweet pineapple, paw-paw and mango. Phenomenally "Cristally" and delightfully sensual. That was how differently I apprehended this wine on that first occasion. Now it is already in the same lacklustre phase as 2000 Dom Pérignon.

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This goes for personality and finesse. An assertive, honeyed style, with plenty of citrus flavors. Mature coffee and roasted nut accents are peeking through, with a robust structure and a dried citrus aftertaste. 32,000 cases imported.

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