($60) Pale lemon-yellow color. Chablis-like aromas of wet stone, lemon cream, nutmeg, mint and minerals. Very ripe in the mouth, with sweet but lively lemon curd and stone fruit flavors. Firm acids frame the strong fruit and give the wine solid structure. Finishes with sneaky length.

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The 2000 Chardonnay McCrea Vineyard is a crisp, lemony, zesty effort with hints of lemon butter, grapefruit, and assorted citrus characteristics. The wine possesses high acid, subtle wood notes, and a 1996 Burgundy-like style. It will age for 5-6 years. For readers seeking opulence, flesh, and luxurious fruit, this wine will always play it close to the vest, although its striking minerality is impressive. There are 2,700 cases.

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Intense, with concentrated fruit and oak that are perfumed and floral, with layers of fig and nectarine folding in nicely. An elegant, restrained version from Kistler. 2,762 cases made.

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