($60) Pale bright yellow. More Burgundian, sulfidey aromas of nuts, iodine, smoke and earth. Dense, suave and vibrant, with very subtle flavors of lemon and minerals. Offers an uncanny combination of airy texture and thickness of fruit. A wine of great sweetness and lift. Superconcentrated without being at all aggressive or phenolic.

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There are 550 cases of the smoky, hazelnut, tropical fruit-scented and flavored, medium to full-bodied, crisp 2000 Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard. An interesting white peach characteristic emerges from this exotic, fruit-driven effort. It possesses the requisite backbone and acidity for 5-6 years of aging.

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Ultrarich, almost syrupy, with a gorgeous core of ripe, buttery pear, honey, pineapple and citrus flavors that are amazingly well-focused, finishing with a tight beam of flavor that zings across the palate, enlivened by juicy acidty. 538 cases made.

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Since 1994, Kistler has produced a Hyde Vineyard Chardonnay. The fruit they receive is from an old block planted to the Old Wente Clone. Hyde Vineyard is close to Hudson Vineyard (where Kistler has also produced a Chardonnay from since 1994) and Winery Lake Vineyard (Winery Lake was a hot vineyard that was held in considerable esteem until Seagram?s bought it and then killed it). The 2000 Hyde is magnificent Chardonnay. A deep gold color with a huge nose of multilayered toasty oak, lemon liqueur, stone, and warm buttered graham crackers. Like liquefied stone in the mouth. Just enormous but the wine?s admirable acidity keeps everything moving.