($65) Medium bright yellow. Knockout nose combines soft citrus scents, lemon, mint, iodine, white flowers and minerals; as Burgundian as California chardonnay gets. Broad on entry, then wonderfully complex and structured; a real mouthful of lemon, hazelnut and stone. Not as extroverted as some recent vintages of this wine, and less sweet and showy today than the Hyde. But this powerful, very dry chardonnay offers great purity and subtle length.

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The 2000 Chardonnay Hudson E-Block reveals a greenish hue to the light straw color, along with crisp acids, superb candied lemon and orange-like notes, less minerality, but full-bodied, smoky, earthy, tropical fruit flavors, and high levels of acidity. There are 500 cases of this prodigious effort.

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Smoke, yeast and roasted grain aromas, with firm, tart lemon, citrus, mineral and green pear flavors tightly woven together. Deeply concentrated, it definitely needs time in the bottle. 528 cases made.

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