($374) Deep red-ruby. Sweet aromas of plum, spun sugar and nutty oak. Rich, round and suave, but kept firm by an edge of acidity. Less expressive today than the Sori Tildin, and more dominated by its structure. Finishes firmly tannic and uncompromisingly dry. Shows the serious side of vintage 2000. It's tempting to say that Gaja's ability to add a bit of barbera to his nebbiolo crus has resulted in fresher wines in 2000.

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The 2000 Sori San Lorenzo is another of the standouts of the year. It remains quite youthful, with notable energy in its dark, brooding fruit and considerable tannin. Despite its sheer power, the 2000 isn't as explosive as it can be. Still, there is little doubt the 2000 Sori San Lorenzo has the stuffing to age well for many years to come. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2030.

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Serious dark color, with meaty, earthy aromas that blow off to ultraripe and exotic fruit. Fresh truffles and porcini. Almost Port-like in the end. Full-bodied, with masses of velvety tannins and a long, long, caressing finish. Solid. This was the first of Gaja's single-vineyard Barbarescos to be vinified separately, in 1967. 970 cases made.

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