($215) Good full red. Very ripe aromas of plum, redcurrant, animal fur, nuts, truffle, tobacco and earth. Rich, full and dry; can't match the 2001 for definition or flavor intensity but this is a distinctly stylish wine for the year. Finishes with a firm tannic edge.

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The 2000 Barbaresco is beginning to show early tertiary qualities. Smoke, tobacco, cedar and dried cherries are some of the notes that emerge from the glass. Over time the Barbaresco gains a measure of freshness, with pretty floral aromas that weave into the finish. The tannins remain quite firm, and are likely to outlast the fruit.

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Like smelling a bouquet of flowers and then a bowl of raspberries. Full-bodied, with perfectly integrated tannins and a very fine, silky texture. Long and caressing. A must-have, great wine. 5,800 cases made.

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