(from 28 rows of vines in Aloxe-Corton) Cool, reserved and incredibly pure green apple and white pear notes blend seamlessly with an intense yet understated minerality that leads to positively crystalline, dense flavors that deliver the hallmark delineation, power and breathtaking persistence of classically styled Corton-Charlemagne. But this rises to the next level by virtue of unmistakable breed and a certain vibrancy and presence that is rare even among great wines. Extremely impressive and destined for a long life.

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($232) Oak-influenced aromas of grilled nuts, vanilla and nutmeg. Dense and voluptuous; as ripe as the Perrieres but less expressive today despite its extraordinary texture. Solid and chewy wine with an almost tannic finish. More explosive today on the aftertaste than it is in the middle palate. This may well prove to be a more complete wine than the 2001 example.

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A year Jean-François loves. He thinks it is very flattering and lovely now. Pierre Troisgros pointed out that any sommelier who recommends it will find the table thrilled by its easy butteriness. Of all these vintages, this is perhaps the one that outperforms the vintage stereotype most conclusively. Lovely wine for now - perhaps without the absolute majesty of 2002 but very flattering and with much, much more structure and savour than most 2000s. Not the most concentrated and starting to be a little chewy on the end. The single vintage in which Coche-Dury seems to overperform compared with other Burgundy producers - many of whom have been affected by premature oxidation.

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The toasted oak-scented 2000 Corton-Charlemagne has the austerity found in many of this vineyard's wines in the 2000 vintage. However, it is vinous, rich, and broad. Pure flavors of minerals, toast, and spices can be found in its highly delineated, profound offering.

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