($65; made from a selection of old-vines grenache, with about 10% of syrah added) Good full ruby-red. Fruit-driven aromas of black raspberry, cassis and bitter chocolate, with a hint of exotic fruits. Like a berry cocktail in the mouth, with penetrating, dense, sharply focused flavors of red berries, licorice and dark chocolate. A wonderfully lush and sweet wine with a compelling sappy quality and lovely aromatic character. But still a bit tight in the middle; the substantial, firm tannins call for four or five years of additional bottle aging.

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The brilliant 2000 Chateauneuf du Pape Les Quartz is more evolved as well as spicier than the floral, mineral, and black fruit-dominated 2001. Full-bodied, with high glycerin, and a heady concoction of minerals, black raspberries, cherries, blackberries, and licorice, this layered, fruity, pure, well-balanced 2000 has a huge finish of nearly 50 seconds. It is a tour de force in winemaking.

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Thanks to its beautiful polish this manages to beguile despite a powerful core of raspberry ganache, sweet toast, mineral, violet, mocha, tobacco and aged fruitcake. Long, juicy finish resonates with pure, dark, vivid fruit. Beautiful.

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Good CndP a little tannic & dusty texture, garrigue, quite good