($96) Medium red. Very fresh nose for the year: cherry, rose petal, cinnamon and a woodsy note. Sweet, lush and creamy on the palate, with ripe red fruit flavors lifted by spices. Finishes with fine, powdery tannins and very good length. "This is almost ready to drink right now but should also keep for 10 or 15 years," notes Giacomo, adding that this is a perfect style of wine for restaurants. Long on flavor.

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Dusty, 'correct' nose but this needs lots of time. It's very severe and magisterial. It certainly makes no efforts to court the taster - a very strong, traditional statement.

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The 2000 Barolo Bussia, the regular bottling, shows the heat of the vintage in its very ripe plum fruit and notes of raisins and chocolate. Tarry, sustained, and of good medium weight, it is already rather round and ready and should be drunk by 2010-2012.

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Complex aromas of Indian spices, dried mushrooms and red fruits. Full-bodied, with soft and silky tannins and a fresh, clean finish. Beautiful.

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