($70) Paler than usual for this wine, almost green-tinged. Puligny-like aromas of minerals, spring flowers and grilled nuts; little obvious sulfides here. Hugely rich and broad in the mouth, with great early sweetness. Consistent, rather backward wine, with terrific cut thanks to brisk lemony acidity and pronounced minerality. Very structured and very strong on the back end. This used to be a barrel selection, and thus to some extent less of a soil-driven wine than the vineyard-designated bottlings, but now it's made almost entirely from old Wente clones planted in the Kistler Vineyard, at an altitude of 1,500 to 1,800 feet.