($75; bottled in July without fining or filtration) Bright red-ruby. Smoky, complex nose of dark berries, minerals, gunflint and roasted meat. Full, sweet and deep; not especially lively in the middle today but offers very good density and richness for the vintage, not to mention an extroverted personality. Then finishes with a note of almost mentholated freshness and building but broad tannins. Should develop gracefully in bottle.

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The elegant, restrained 1999 Vieux-Telegraphe Chateauneuf du Pape is a stylish effort. Dark ruby-colored, with a bouquet of sweet black fruit intertwined with mineral, licorice, and resin, it is layered, long, and deep, with bright acidity as well as firm tannin in the finish. Cellar it for several years and drink it over the following 12-15.

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Beautiful Rhone red. Full-bodied, rich and ripe, with plum and blackberry notes and some real tannic grip. Mineral edge adds complexity to this impressive Chateauneuf. Built for the cellar. 16,665 cases made.

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Ho brah onolicious!