($59) Slightly hazy pale gold color. Captivating, soil-inflected, but rather restrained nose combines gunflint, nuts, smoke and stone. Then wonderfully aromatic, rich and vibrant in the mouth, with intense yellow fruits and musky, leesy and mineral nuances. Thick but utterly succulent thanks to lively, perfectly integrated acids. Long, palate-saturating finish. Potentially Manfred Krankl's best dry white wine since his 1995 The Bride.

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Krankl's 1999 Tarantella is one of the finest white wines he has made. It possesses outstanding underlying acidity, a terrific, citrusy, honeyed perfume (flower, mango, and tangerine aromas dominate) that roars from the glass, full body, and brilliant balance. Given past examples of this blend of Roussanne, Viognier, and Chardonnay, the 1999 should age nicely for 7-8 years.

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