($68) Fresh medium ruby. Aromatic nose combines roasted berries, chocolate and spicecake. Sweet, concentrated and primary, with rather clenched, medicinal flavors of dark berries and minerals. Cleanly made but not yet showing much nuance. Almost brutal in the mid-palate, but the tannins are fairly supple.

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The 1999 Brunello di Montalcino, fresh and dark in color, shows much floral and mineral Sangiovese character in its red currant and wild cherry nose and a broad and enveloping palate, rich and smooth in texture and admirably long on the flow. Drink: 2005-2016. Wines produced by estates belonging to financial institutions rarely have a good reputation in Italy. The outstanding exception are those of mega-insurer SAI, and La Poderina is their Montalcino property.

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Incredible richness to this red, with layers of blackberry, licorice and treacle tart on the nose and palate. Full-bodied, with loads of silky tannins and a long, long finish. Seductive stuff-even better than 1997. Get it. 4,375 cases made.

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Meaty, soapy; not a good wine