($65) Deep red. Ineffable, deep aromas of wild strawberry, blackberry, espresso, underbrush and sweet oak. Densely packed and sweet, with strong minerality contributing to the impression of extract. A big, mouthfilling wine that's rich and broad but also quite vibrant. Finishes impressively long and bright, with horizontal, very fine tannins. (Marc de Grazia; importers include Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; and Estate Wines Ltd. , San Rafael, CA)

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Quite mature-looking ruby, but healthy. Dense, exciting, and clean. Very lively and racy. Correct and healthy.

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The 1999 Brunello di Montalcino is a big wine, but with the shapeliness which always characterizes this producer's wines. The ripe and ample notes of red fruit, leather, liquorice, and game are followed by the classic smoothness and melting tannins of Sassetti wines, continuous and caressing and with a rise in the intensity and sense of solidity on the finish. Deceptively ready, it will easily last another dozen years.

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Greenish gold in color. Purple in color. Medium rim variation. Medium legs. Fig, Mineral, Forest floor. Medium bodied. Round texture. Medium finish.