(Méo owns a whopping 3 ha of Clos de Vougeot, all of it superbly placed high on the slope, across from the Château) The Clos de Vougeot has never been the Domaine's strongest wine, for reasons that have always mystified me since they own so much of it, permitting severe selection and the parcel itself is perfectly situated; this 99 though is well worth your consideration. It's marked by the new wood today but in contrast to the austerity typical of young Clos de Vougeot, the pinot spice is seductive and wonderful in its effusiveness. The flavors too are open, fine and elegant to the point of being almost easy going yet there is no lack of power, richness or concentration. Really quite lovely.

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($146) Red-ruby. Primary aromas of sappy berries, black cherry, licorice and bitter chocolate. Very fresh and primary in the mouth, with terrific flavor intensity and sucrosity. Dense, lush and vibrant. Finishes with very fine tannins. Perhaps less fat than the Boudot, but more refined.

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Very supple, rich and full. Extremely winning already. Broad, full, lovely and alluring. It's so long-flavoured and charming even at this stage that I found it difficult to spit.

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The ruby-colored 1999 Clos Vougeot reveals black cherry, spice, and perfumed aromatics. Medium-bodied and rich, it has an excellent depth of fresh, well-ripened cherry fruit. Toasted oak comes out in its supple finish. Drink it over the next 7 years.

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Subtle and smooth, with good texture and structure. Some black fruit lingers on the palate. Dark-colored, medium- to full-bodied. Delicious but a bit fluid on the finish. 1,025 cases made.

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