($188) Light gold. Vibrant, tangy aromas of apple, pear, white peach and minerals. Wound tight right now, only reluctantly offering up flavors of fresh orchard fruits, herbs and pepper. Finishes zesty and long. Seems less deep than the 1997 bottling; is this just in a sullen, youthful stage?

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58% PN, 42% Chardonnay. Had to build the wine a bit so had 24% oak fermentation.Much deeper, pink colour than the 1996. Very broad, developed nose. Quite meaty on the nose and still delicate on the palate. Quite sensuous, like a feather brushing the palate. Far from aggressive. Actually quite chewy ? still quite astringent even if not desperately acid. There?s a certain apparent sweetness. Cr?me patissi?re notes.

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One of the finest Champagnes I have ever brought to my lips, the 1999 Cristal bursts from the glass with fresh hazelnut and apple scents. Elegant, deep, and silky-textured, this medium to full-bodied beauty is immensely concentrated, pure, packed with apple flavors, and astoundingly long in the finish. Louis Roederer does not display a disgorgement date or consumer friendly lot number on its non-vintage Brut. This is regrettable as it has consistently been one of the finer bottlings in this category.

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I seldom have the opportunity of enjoying a whole bottle on my own, but when I sat down in the Continental Restaurant in Reims on a job trip and saw that this new vintage of Cristal had just been launched in secret, I was unable to resist the temptation. I sat for hours and sipped at it until I had emptied the whole bottle, and with a smile on my lips I strolled out to the magnificently illuminated cathedral in the autumn night. I can sum up my detailed impressions briefly by saying that the aroma was weak and immature while the flavour had a fairytale elegance, concentration and classicism. Time will tell where we finally end up.

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High-toned and floral, with hints of coconut and spice. Firm and lively. Needs a little time to integrate and resolve the fine mousse with the tactile finish. More backward and powerful than most 1999s, this has potential. 29,000 cases made.

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