(with thanks to Dr. Reed Day). The heavy wood spice that dominated the concentrated black fruit from cask has now largely, if not completely, been absorbed and leads to round, sexy, seductive, earthy, nicely rich and detailed flavors of excellent intensity and fine length. This is still relatively primary though the depth is slowly emerging and while it will undoubtedly be a long term cellar candidate, it should be close to its majority in another 7 to 10 years. Note that I have upgraded my view of this wine considerably as I was not at all sure that it could successfully integrate this much wood but indeed it has. ¡¡

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($146) Good full red. Aromatic nose combines redcurrant, iron and minerals. The sweetest and most expansive of the trio of 1999s I sampled, with firm acids giving shape to the flavors. Here the broad tannins hit the palate rather late, and there plenty of stuffing to support them.

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Beautiful ripe Pinot of great complexity. Thick, layered with deftly dosed oak notes of mocha, coffee and smoke. It turns up the volume in the midpalate, ripping with fresh, black fruit that vaults with Olympic grace to a long, long finish.

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