($60; includes about 20% syrah, all of which was aged in new pieces; from soil rich in galets roules, the large round stones found across much of the northern portion of the appellation) Bright ruby-red. Wonderfully aromatic nose combines plum, redcurrant, smoked meat and chocolate. Mouthfilling, sweet and chewy, if currently a bit closed. Concentrated and rich but not yet totally harmonious. This wine was assembled only a month or so prior to the bottling. Today the tannins stand out.

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With four great vintages of Chateauneuf du Pape, 1999 being the least impressive, readers should not miss out on any of the 1999s from Domaine du Caillou as I have seen them available at retail. No, they are not the 1998s, 2000s, or 2001s, but they are spectacular efforts that represent some of the finest wines of the vintage. Not bad!

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