($65-$84) Good red-ruby. Subtly complex nose melds cassis, truffle and expensive oak; shows an almost liqueur-like sweetness. Then supple, dense and bright, with a pliant texture and excellent depth of flavor. This is ripe and fleshy but also classically dry, structured and elegant, with lovely inner-mouth perfume. Very penetrating, long wine, finishing with suave tannins that are firm but fine. (Marc de Grazia; importers include Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; Estate Wines, Ltd. , San Rafael, CA; Vin Divino, Chicago, IL, Augustan Wine Imports, Hollywood, CA)

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The 1999 Brunello di Montalcino Vigna di Pianrosso, one of the best to date, announces its importance with warm and potent aromas of plums and red currants, chocolate and tar. The rich and concentrated flavors, deep, supple, and very long, have the dimension, class, and definition that put the Sangiovese of Montalcino in a category of its own.

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Very tight and firm, with hints of fresh flowers, berries and fresh meat. Full-bodied, chewy and silky, with hints of mineral and fruit. Long finish. This is a wine that needs bottle age. Strangely, I like the 1998 better and, of course, the 1997. 4,100 cases made.

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