($70) Deep red-ruby. Subdued aromas of currant and dark chocolate. Creamy but juicy flavors of currant, cherry and licorice, with a light herbaceousness; very cabernet sauvignon. Bright acidity gives this fairly intense wine a penetrating quality. Finishes firmly tannic, with notes of mocha and oak and good cut.

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Has the chocolate-covered cherry character so true to Cinq Cepages, along with a dusty, meaty, licorice and tar character for great complexity. Minerals, too. Subtle oak texture, fine-grain tannins and very crisp acidity. Aging estimation may be conservative.

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While the 13,000-case cuvee of 1999 Cinq Cepages (76% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc, 4% Malbec, and 2% Petit Verdot) is not as prodigious as the 1997 or 1996, it is potentially outstanding. This New World version of a high class St.-Emilion boasts an opaque ruby/purple color in addition to a sweet bouquet of licorice, dried herbs, tobacco, smoke, black cherries, and cassis. It is medium to full-bodied, with a lovely texture, admirable complexity, and a long finish. The question mark relates to the notion of elevated, dry tannin in the finish. My instincts suggest this characteristic will age out given the wine's overall concentration and intensity.

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Gorgeous Cabernet, offering a mix of ripe, rich, fleshy currant and blackberry fruit, with hints of herb, olive and sage. Finishes with a firm, structured backbone and ripe tannins giving it depth and richness. 13,000 cases made.

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