($66) Full medium-deep red. Musky aromas of plum, gunpowder and coffee. Supple on entry, then dense but a bit unforthcoming in the middle palate, offering hints of minerals and meat but limited real sweetness. Finishes with fairly ripe but slightly dry tannins. (Visa Imports, New York, NY)

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Suolo uses some of the Argiano's oldest Sangiovese vineyards, a policy which can only arouse a few doubts, particularly after tasting the 1999 Brunello di Montalcino. The aromas, with the notes of game, Mediterranean herbs, and plum and cherry fruit, could not be more Sangiovese, but the texture is a bit lean and the finish slightly dry. Some bottle time may smooth out the kinks, but it seems hard to believe that the major wine of the house and the zone couldn't and shouldn't be its best wine as well.

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Solid, with blackberry, plum and cedar character on the nose and palate. Full-bodied, with chewy tannins and a long finish. This is what you expect from an outstanding Brunello. 10,830 cases made.

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Big and brooding even after decant, this wine is still a baby. Rust colored. Dusty cherries, earth, and sandalwood on the nose. Good fruit, dirt, spice, along with rustic tannins that suggest a much longer lifespan. Continued to develop in decanter for the disciplined hour we took to enjoy it.