($90) Full, deep red. Currant, plum, bitter cherry, roasted meat, menthol and licorice on the complex, rather wild nose. Moderately dense and bright, with cool, slightly green flavors of dark berries, licorice, pepper and herbs. Offers intense flavors, fairly ripe tannins and good length, but the wine's elevated acidity gives the finish a slight tart quality. Seemed to harmonize with time in the glass.

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Bright and fruity. The 98 is a lighter version of the 97 or 99 that is drinking very well right now, with only 30 minutes to breathe. Very nice, more delicate than powerful, but unmistakably Valdicava.