Medium ruby. Black cherry and red licorice on the nose; largely avoids the herbal aspect shown by this winery other 1998 reds. Very intense flavors of black cherry, licorice and mint, but still tightly wound, even a bit clenched, and unevolved for a '98. Very long, firm finish hints at mint and exotic Indian spices. The main vineyard component for this super-cuvee produced 3.3 tons per hectare in 1997 but less than 1 in 1998.

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The 1998 Cabernet Sauvignon Hillside Select is a candidate for wine of the vintage. It continues to gain weight, and is better each time I retaste it. Its opaque purple color is accompanied by gorgeous aromas of graphite, vanilla, black currant liqueur, and minerals. This rich, full-bodied Cabernet offers sweet tannin, a layered texture, and a finish that lasts for 45-50 seconds. It is a splendid accomplishment in a difficult vintage.

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Has lots of richness, depth and complexity, with layers of earthy currant, anise, black cherry and blackberry fruit, showing far more depth and ripeness than most from this vintage. 2,000 cases made.

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Took over an hour to open up, but when it did, it was terrific.