($120) Saturated medium ruby. Sappy aromas of brambly blackberry, currant, cocoa powder, graphite and game, plus a light floral topnote. Almost painfully young and clenched in the mouth: a shock to the palate today. Elevated acidity seems almost lemony. The powerful, drying tannins spread out to cover the entire palate. This will need a long time in bottle, but will it ever truly blossom?

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The 1998 Monte Bello Proprietary Red (a blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot, and 1% Cabernet Franc) exhibits a ripe nose of sweet oak intermixed with blackberries and cassis. It is firm and medium-bodied, with astringent tannin in the finish. Winemaker Paul Draper's comments on the back label are usually modest, but it would appear he is much higher on this vintage than my notes suggest. The 1998 Monte Bello needs 4-5 years of cellaring, and should develop along the lines of an austere Bordeaux vintage.

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Dark, with a tight focus on the ripe blackberry and black cherry-scented fruit. Concentrated and complex, not a classic, but very well-done for the vintage, offering depth and length. Finishes with a tart edge. 4,500 cases made.

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