($90; about 120 cases will be re-released in the fall of 2008, ten years after the harvest) Good dark red. Wild aromas of currant, leather, and smoky bacon fat; reminded me of a Cote-Rotie. Lively, leanish and penetrating, with firm flavors of dark fruits, salami skin, pepper and herbs. A rather elegantly styled wine with surprising persistence, albeit a tad dry and herbal on the back. Light for a Togni wine (Togni himself referred to the wine as "thin") but with no shortage of complexity-and very easy to pair with food.

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The 1998 Cabernet Sauvignon exhibits a dense ruby/purple color. Made from fruit that was harvested between October 30 and November 4 (50% of the crop was cut off to guarantee only ripe fruit), it reveals aromas of tapenade, licorice, black currants, smoked herbs, and earth. The wine offers abundant black fruits, outstanding richness and complexity. It can be drunk early, but will easily age for 15 or more years.

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Another shitty bottle....thin, vegetal, tastes like cheap Aussie plonk.....