($45; this is Muga's modern-style Rioja, aged for 22 months in American oak vats, then 16 months in new Allier barriques; as with the other Muga Riojas, this is bottled without filtration) Medium red-ruby. Subdued fruit aromas of plum, currant and raspberry, plus coffee, smoke and spice from the oak. Juicy but backward; extremely young and tightly wound. This has fruit of steel, with strong acids contributing to the wine's sharp flavor definition and powerful impression of spine. Juicy, sappy finish is very long and aromatic. Decant this highly concentrated wine for at least a few hours or cellar it for a decade. (Fine Estates From Spain, Dedham, MA)

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The prestigious, modern-styled 1998 Torre Muga was aged 22 months in American oak vats, followed by 16 months in new French oak. It was bottled without filtration. A deep ruby/plum color accompanies the gorgeously sweet bouquet of licorice, black cherries, currants, and plums. As the wine sits in the glass, notions of spice box and tobacco also emerge. Medium-bodied, opulent, expansive, pure, and well-delineated, it will provide immense pleasure over the next 10-15 years. Sadly, there are only 1,500 cases for the American market.

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Lush and ripe. Rich plum and cherry flavors are wrapped in toasty oak and supported by muscular tannins in this exuberant red. A bit clumsy now, but vivid and deep. 1,000 cases imported.

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