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($125-$175) Pale yellow. An enticing blend of red berries, butter and toast on the nose; this settled down to an earthy, smoky character that reminded me of Batard-Montrachet. Full and rich, with flavors of musky yellow plum and ripe pear accented by crisp mineral notes. Really long and vibrant on the building finish, if not as precise or elegant as the 1996. Still, of the two vintages, this is the one I would prefer to drink over the next five or years or so.

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A stronger vintage than expected, the 1998 Dom Perignon exhibits aromas and flavors of lemon oil, orange rind, and brioche in a medium-bodied, zesty, rich, moderately intense style. It is far superior to either the 1993 or 1992. Readers should remember that the 1971 Dom Perignon Rose is still drinking exquisitely. I recently had the 1969 and 1970 Dom Perignons (from magnum), and both were drinking brilliantly. It makes one realize just how long-lived these wines can be. Production is confidential, but there must be hundreds of thousands of cases of Dom Perignon since it available in most of the world's luxury hotels and restaurants.

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You will have to take my first notes on this wine with a generous pinch of salt. I tasted it actually in connection with the launch of my latest book at the French Embassy in New York. Partly I had my focus elsewhere, but above all the glasses were far from perfect. This wine felt classical, fairly light, but with a long, impressive aftertaste. I will return to it when I have been able to taste it in my own glasses. Now I have done that and the impression is the same in the main. Very long, pure and classical, with mineral in the lead, but up to now rather weak.

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Broad and airy in texture, with enticing candied berry, citrus and coffee aromas and flavors. It has bright acidity, keeping it well-defined through the lingering finish.

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