Virtually impenetrable black-ruby. Coconut, fruitcake and vanilla notes on the nose, along with sweet plum. Lush, dense and creamy in texture, with plum and chocolate flavors that are almost decadent in their richness. But this wine has the freshness to balance its sweetness. Finishes with exceptional persistence. The 1997 Messorio has already attracted wide attention, but this '98 is at another level altogether. (Winebow Inc., New York, NY)

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