Saturated dark ruby. Aromas of black fruits, bitter chocolate, caramel and nutty, charred oak. Amazingly lush and silky for the year, with ripe flavors of black cherry, black raspberry and licorice. Can't match the '97, or the '99, for sheer density but this is bright, concentrated, suave and very long. Tannins are even and fine. A remarkable performance in the context of the year.

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The 1998, which is a candidate for the "Wine of the Vintage," was produced from yields of 0.9 tons per acre. There are only 1,100 cases, and it is the first Harlan Estate to be composed of 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. A spectacular achievement, it boasts an opaque plum/purple color as well as a sumptuous nose of espresso, mineral, blueberry, blackberry, tobacco, licorice, Asian spice, and roasted meat smells. In the mouth, it is seamless, full-bodied, with an unctuous texture, gorgeously sweet tannin, and layer upon layer of concentration. This is a tour de force in winemaking. It is hard to believe that a wine such as this has emerged from 1998.

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Big and powerful with lots of raisiny and rich aromas and flavors. Slightly volatile. Full-bodied, thick and chewy. Almost rustic, but impressive. Lots of vanilla and fruit on the finish. Both bottles in the tasting had this slightly volatile character.

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Bursting with black cherry and cassis on the nose and front palate. The mid palate and finish were a little disappointing. All in all, not a bad wine but definitely on the decline.