(a blend of 8 grands crus with 64% chardonnay and 46% in pinot noir) An exceptionally pure and like the Grand Millsime, very understated blend of yeast, citrus blossom, green apple and acacia blossom merges into equally pure, intense and moderately effervescent flavors brimming with complexity and an explosive length. Wow, this is simply terrific and a Champagne that will be with us 20 years from now if well stored. Highly recommended.

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The 1998 Extra Brut Vintage Celebris is a beautifully focused, linear wine that sparkles on the palate with the essence of white peaches, pears, quince and flowers. This medium-bodied yet structured wine offers phenomenal persistence, along with chalky, minerally notes that give the wine its superb liveliness and sense of freshness. Like many wines in this line-up, the 1998 Extra Brut Vintage Celebris is a beautiful, contemplative wine that deserves serious attention. This is a great effort. The blend is 64% Chardonnay and 36% Pinot Noir. The cork is labeled C 7202, and this bottle was disgorged early December, 2007.

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All winemakers strive for equilibrium in one way or another. Gosset, with their oxidative, opulent style, must battle to achieve equilibrium by having a high level of acid and low dosage. In this case they have chosen to make an Extra Brut, which is a choice that I would not have made. I think that a slightly higher dosage would have made the wine rather more pleasing to the public and more harmonious from the start as well as protecting it against future oxidation. There is a great deal to indicate that its maturity will reach a slender peak, which one will have to aim at in order to be completely satisfied. This wine is otherwise clear and beautifully golden with lively mousse and a pompous Aÿ-Pinot aroma of an animal and red fruit type. Full-bodied and quite divorced from its actual grape composition at present. A short, dry finish on an otherwise lovely taste trip in the country of Aÿ.

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An attractive mix of cherry, toast and citrus peel is boosted by a firm, even bracing, structure. This has plenty of fruit, fine intensity and a dry, racy finish.

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