More Vintages and Sizes of Dunn - Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain:
International Wine Cellar
Author: Stephen Tanzer
Issue: Issue 99
($65) Bright ruby. Cassis, minerals and mint on the nose. Very tight and a bit musclebound, but the flavors of darkest berries and licorice are vibrant and pristine. Juicy, firmly tannic and quite long, with miraculously little greenness for a mountain cabernet in '98. Very unevolved today. My bottle showed more thickness with extended aeration. Randy Dunn dropped nearly half of his fruit in order to get the rest ripe in '98, and has produced highly successful cabernets in the context of the vintage.
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Author: Robert Parker
Dunn's normal policy is to select the Napa Cabernet Sauvignon from his barrels right before bottling. Hence what I tasted was a trial blend of this wine. This year produced extremely small crops characterized by extremely cool growing seasons as well as unusually late harvests. Randy Dunn dropped 40% of his crop in 1998 in order to attain ripeness. Consequently, this wine does not possess the herbaceousness or weediness found in many 1998 Howell Mountain Cabernets. The wine reveals plenty of sweet black currant fruit infused with minerals. While light, it is a successful effort. It may last only 20-25 years, rather than fifty! The 1998 displays excellent intensity along with pure black currant/cassis notes intermixed with earth, spice, and smoke.
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