A ripe and clearly maturing nose with hints of botrytis leads to rich, intense and surprisingly precise full-bodied flavors underpinned by ample minerality and plenty of punch. This is by no means classic but it's generous, concentrated and offers the classic minerality of Chevalier yet the richness and amplitude of the flavors and finish make this more Montrachet than Chevalier. Drinkable now though there is absolutely no rush.

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Very complex nose hints at orange peel, spiced bread, tea and honey. Impressive power and intensity on the palate, with racy acidity giving it structure and finesse. Has the richness and volume of Montrachet. Brisk, lemony finish of superb persistence. I'd never have picked this blind as a '98. One of the top wines of vintage.

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