Saturated ruby-red. More floral, highly nuanced aromas of violet, brown sugar, lead pencil, tar and game. Firmer and quite intensely flavored, but less expressive than the riper '97. Still, this is bright and delineated. Finishes with substantial tannins and pronounced mineral character. This should evolve rather slowly.

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In partnership with auctioneer Fritz Hatten, Kongsgaard produces about 500 cases of Arietta (a 60% Cabernet Franc/40% Merlot blend representing this winery's answer to Cheval Blanc). The 1998 is a complete, complex wine that tastes like a synthesis between a top-class St. Emilion and a Napa Valley red. It possesses the complexity of a top Bordeaux allied to the ripeness and richness of California. Its dense ruby/purple color is accompanied by aromas of black fruits, leather, spice box, and flowers. Medium to full-bodied and pure, with moderate tannin in the finish, it opens with extended airing. (Blueberries became apparent after about 10 minutes.) This wine should drink well for at least 20 years.

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