($70; 80% sangiovese and 20% cabernet sauvignon) Medium to dark garnet. Brooding nose offers tobacco and licorice scents. Good inner-mouth density, with flavors of dark berries, vanilla and near eastern spices, and an unexpected hint of tropical fruit. Finishes with firm, dusty tannins and some unresolved oak. A notable effort, amply concentrated and richly textured, but not as impressive as some earlier vintages of this wine.

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There are 30,000 cases of this well-known Tuscan proprietary red made from a blend of 80% Sangiovese, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 5% Cabernet Franc. The 1998 offers a classic bouquet of berry fruit, new saddle leather, underbrush, earth, and toast from its new barrique aging. Medium to full-bodied, good delineation, and a firm, classic style, it requires 2-3 years of cellaring, and should drink well for 15-16.

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A velvety and caressing red, with tobacco, berry and cherry character. Medium- to full-bodied, with well-integrated tannins and a long, delicious aftertaste. 27,000 cases made.

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Way over the hill. We waited a long time and the wine never opened up.