Very complex nose hints at yellow plum, crystallized pineapple, coconut, clove, honey and nut skin. Very dense and very dry, with subtle flavor and a dusty impression of extract suffusing the entire palate. Not showing the sheer personality of the '96 at a similar stage, but this very rich, long wine is still quite closed.

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Revealing a tell-tale greenish hue to its deep gold color (which is more mature and older looking than the 1996s), the 1997 exhibits aromas of roasted hazelnuts, smoke, brioche, honeyed melons and honeysuckle. Although it is neither as complex nor compelling as the 1996 (it's hard to follow an utterly perfect wine), it is a full-bodied Chardonnay offering notes of liquified tropical fruit, good acidity, and a slightly more monolithic quality than its older sibling.

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Impressive complexity, finesse and depth of flavor in this wine, with a mix of rich, mineral, fig, anise, citrus and smoky campfire notes (right down to the toasted marshmallow nuances). Holds its focus nicely on the long, rich finish, mixing youthful flavors with mature ones.

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