($179) Light gold, with a hint of copper. Expansive and powerful on the nose, displaying scents of honey, light toffee, fresh fig and baked apples. Dense and thick, with serious heft; emphatically not an aperitif style of Champagne. The flavors of ripe apple and pear, singed butter and baking spices are concentrated and deep. Boasts a velvety, weighty texture that carries through the finish.

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Light honey colour. Very tight bead. Attractively compact and with an acidity level that seemed almost comforting(ly low) after the red bordeaux first growths from the same vintage. Tightly laced with Chardonnay influence in evidence at the moment. No desperate hurry to drink ? even if most of it will presumably be drunk by now anyway.

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It's hardly surprising that Roederer, with its brilliant vineyards, has succeeded so well in 1997. Cristal, of course, is a star as usual, with layers of fat, oily tastes. Honey, vanilla, exotic fruit, and cakes sound trivial for a wine with this complexity and elegance—so let's just enjoy this delicious tidbit without analyzing its beauty to death.

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Tightly wound, with tobacco, ginger and green tea flavors underscored by a citrusy acidity. Firm, tactile finish. 29,000 cases made.

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Perfect timing!