Full deep ruby. Black raspberry, violet, mint, shoe polish and mineral aromas complicated by hints of game, smoke and herbs. Fat and rich, but can't match the '97 Barolos for sheer grip. And comes across as a bit less sweet-a bit greener-than the '98 and '99 versions of Darmagi. Seems slightly pinched on the back; perhaps it in an awkward stage today.

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The first vintage of this famously heretical wine named after Giovanni Gaj's reaction to the news that the foreign Cabernet Sauvignon was to be planted on 2.5 ha surrounded by Nebbiolo in Barbaresco, darmagi being local dialect for 'what a shame’. 'My father never really became a fan of Cabernet Sauvignon,’ Angelo told us. 'He just wasn’t interested. He liked very old Barbaresco.’ Gaia says that the wine still has some Nebbiolo characteristics because of where it grows. Just 600-800 cases made each year.Beautiful mature ruby shading right to the rim and a wonderfully sumptuous plummy, cedary bouquet of which many a Médocain would be jealous. Very gentle and sweet but with marvellous freshness too. Hints of liquorice. Lovely.

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There are 1,000 cases of the exceptional, black/purple-colored 1997 Darmagi Cabernet Sauvignon (3-4% Cabernet Franc was added to the blend). With abundant quantities of smoky, concentrated fruit as well as tannin, the vintage's low acid, thick, glycerin-imbued character, and a layered, full-bodied finish, it should develop nicely for two decades. A genius for sure, Angelo Gaja can not be faulted for what he puts in the bottle. This work of art is worth every cent it will fetch.

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Coffee and expresso. Yum. Needs two hours of air. Long finish.