($60) Saturated garnet, with purple hues. Intense aromas of powdered cocoa, cinnamon and spicy cedar are followed by a sweet, wonderfully delineated entry of licorice, plum jam, roasted coffee and tar. Big-boned and vibrant, with a creamy, mouthfilling texture and gauzy tannins. The long, sweet finish is reminiscent of marzipan. This complex and supple wine is a paradigm of how to combine power and elegance. (Marc de Grazia; importers include Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; and Estate Wines Ltd., San Rafael, CA)

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The terrific 1997 Brunello di Montalcino boasts a staggering aromatic profile of soy sauce, roasted meats, dried herbs, jammy black and red fruits, and Asian spices. This full-bodied, superbly concentrated, layered, multidimensional Brunello is the kind of wine one expects from such a renowned region, but so rarely receives. This beauty should drink well young yet evolve effortlessly for 15+ years.

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Beautiful, with blackberry, perfumed violet and milk chocolate aromas. Full-bodied, with loads of jammy, chocolaty fruit and big, velvety tannins. Lasts for minutes on the palate. Glorious now, but will age for a very long time. 2,500 cases made.

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Very good, opened up nicely. Decanted about 2 hours. Smooth, silky and not too tanic.