Good deep ruby-red. Spicy aromas of black cherry and bitter chocolate; the 40% mourvedre component gives this wine unusual freshness for a '97. Silky but bright on the palate, with leather and game nuances adding complexity to the black fruit flavors. Brisk finish hints at tree bark and leather.

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Yields for the 1997 Chateauneuf du Pape were tiny, averaging 22 hectoliters per hectare, and the wine is one of the most seductive and forward young Beaucastels I have tasted since the 1985. The blend was 35% Mourvedre, 30% Grenache, 10% Counoise, 5% Syrah, 5% Cinsault, and the rest other southern Rhone varietals. The deep ruby color is accompanied by forward, attractive aromatics consisting of black raspberries, cherries, licorice, floral, and herb scents. The wine is fruit-driven, with less structure than usual, but luscious cassis, licorice, and blackberries inundate the palate with no hard edges. A seductive, supple-textured, medium to full-bodied Beaucastel, this wine should drink well young, and last for 15 or more years.

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A clever effort for '97. Dark and fruit-driven, this fresh, compacted Châteauneuf delivers blackberry, toasted oak, plum and game. The tannins are well integrated in the ways of modern winemaking.

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From magnum. Deep, nearly opaque garnet with slightly browning edges. Blast of garrigue, hot rocks and a little brett on the nose. Medium body but mouth-filling; fairly firm acids for a '97, giving the fruit a notably "focused ripeness." Remaining tannins are smooth. Holding up well. Note: Some bottles from the mid-90s (including '93, '94 and '97) can show excessive brett and/or styrene characteristics that may or may not blow off with air. This bottle had neither issue, and was sweet by comparison, although not in an unbalanced way.