Deep ruby-red. Explosive, somewhat feral, highly aromatic nose of cassis, roast coffee, game, smoky oak and chocolate; shows a very strong torrefaction aspect. Lush, rich and deep; has a pliancy and degree of early personality I find in only the very best young California cabernets. Subtle notes of chocolate and tobacco contribute to the wine appeal. Finishes fairly tannic but very long. Distinctly more layered than the '95.

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The 1996 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve may be no better than the Oakville, but it is made in a slightly different style. The color is opaque purple, and the wine reveals more vanillin, a touch of mint, and plenty of black currant fruit in its moderately intense aromatics. Some of the vintage's dry tannin (from this year's stressed vineyard conditions) is present in the wine's finish. A more stylish, restrained, less exuberant example than the 1996 Oakville, it is an outstanding offering that should be consumed between 2002-2025.

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Herb, currant and tea scents turn supple and elegant on the palate, picking up a complex note of tar and mineral. Gains depth and richness on the finish and still has firm tannins. Easily the best of three bottles.--1996 California Cabernet retrospective.

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Garnet in color. Low rim variation. Medium legs. Black currant (cassis), Cherry,. slight baking spice Tobacco. Medium/Full bodied. Silky texture. Long finish.