Tightly wound, complex nose hints at lemon, apple, spearmint, herbs and smoky, charred oak. Deep and concentrated, but currently dominated by its oak. Here the acidity is nicely integrated. Tactile, fresh and light on its feet. Finishes long and clean. This is ultimately a broader, more concentrated, even richer wine than the Mon Plaisir, but it the Mon Plaisir I'd drink over the near term.

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1996 was a much hotter year than 1997, 1995, and 1994. While the 1996s are outstanding wines, in some cases the aromatics are more muted because of 1996's high heat. As the tasting notes and ratings evidence, the Chardonnays are slightly more bunched in scores and quality than in vintages such as 1995 and 1994. I have always been a fan of the Chardonnay Cuvee Indigene, so named because it is made from 100% indigenous yeasts and is what the professionals call a "naturally fermented" wine. It always possesses exuberant, intense ripe fruit and richness, along with smoky, beer nut, pain grille-like aromas. The 1996 is a full-bodied, gorgeously proportioned, exotic Chardonnay that leans toward Burgundy in its aromatics, but clearly comes down on the California side with its ostentatious display of ripe fruit. As much as I love the Cuvee Indigene, I have found that recent vintages have gotten even better after a year or so in the bottle. I have never believed these wines should be cellared for more than four or five years, but I am beginning to wonder if that advice might be a bit conservative. Moreover, I suggest decanting this wine 30-45 minutes prior to serving as aeration always seems to enhance the wine's perfume. In any event, this is a stunningly rich, intense Chardonnay that is among the finest being made in California. All of Peter Michael's top wines, including the Chardonnays, are bottled without filtration. Readers should make it a point to visit this winery situated in Knights Valley, not far from the Napa/Sonoma county line. The quality is extraordinary, and the commitment and talent of the winery staff laudatory. Moreover, the winery seems committed to achieving even greater quality.

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