Slightly hazy green-tinged pale gold. Very complex, leesy aromas of tarragon, apricot pit, orange peel and honey. Large-scaled and broad but also round and nicely filled in; at once expansive and light on its feet. Began quite dry and uncompromising but opened to show lovely ripeness and a slow-mounting, fruit-driven finish. Bright note of lime on the aftertaste.

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The 1996 Chardonnay Vine Hill Road Vineyard has the highest acidity of the Kistler offerings, and is normally a tight, restrained wine. The 1996, while revealing fine elegance, and a lemony, citrusy, apple-like fruitiness, also exhibited crisp, tart acidity, medium body, and a subtle personality. I suspect there are some minerals lurking in the background of this tightly-knit Chardonnay that should age well for 5-6 years. All the Kistler Chardonnays are made in a Burgundian manner. They are barrel-fermented, given full malolactic fermentation, extensive lees stirring, racked out of their barrels following a year's cask aging, and allowed to settle in tank until bottling, which usually occurs without any fining or filtration. All of the wines reviewed in this segment were tasted from tank as they were awaiting bottling early next year.

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Tight and flinty, with rich pear, fig, anise, vanilla and hazelnut flavors that start out subtly and build to a rich, complex aftertaste. 2,774 cases made.

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