Yellow-gold. Knockout, soil-specific aromas of lemon, orange zest and iodine. A step up in intensity and concentration; lively acidity gives the sweet flavors uncanny precision. This offers great verve. Finishes very long and firm, and rather suave.

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A new offering in the Kistler line-up is the stunning 1996 Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard (500 cases produced), which is made from an old Wente clone of Chardonnay that produces extremely low yields and tiny berries. This wine offers a roasted hazelnut, creamy, lemon custard, smoky nose. In the mouth, this medium to full-bodied wine exhibits terrific layers of rich fruit, a roasted, exotic character, full body, high acidity, and underlying minerality. A compelling Chardonnay, it should drink well for 4-5 years. All the Kistler Chardonnays are made in a Burgundian manner. They are barrel-fermented, given full malolactic fermentation, extensive lees stirring, racked out of their barrels following a year's cask aging, and allowed to settle in tank until bottling, which usually occurs without any fining or filtration. All of the wines reviewed in this segment were tasted from tank as they were awaiting bottling early next year.

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Intense, with complex earthy pear, fig, melon, citrus and hazelnut flavors that are remarkably elegant and sophisticated, long and lingering on the finish. 566 cases made.

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